Exploring Menswear: Chapter 2 – The Gentleman

 

The standard-bearer for contemporary quality informed by tradition, the epitome of sartorial propriety.

Giorgio Armani Spring 2010

Brummell’s direct stylistic descendant is The Gentleman. In the twenty-first century the new Gentleman’s most important quality is success and the power that success affords; second, is the reflection of his power through discreet and coded means. These men favour the sartorial anonymity of monochrome; the muted elegance of a grey or navy suit, black lace-up shoe, white shirt and modestly colourful tie reflect the subtlety of Brummell’s own approach.

Giorgio Armani Spring 2010

Contemporary tailors Timothy Everest, Charlie Allen, Carlo Brandelli and Richard Anderson are the drivers for gentlemanly discretion in the twenty-first century. Whilst they uphold key values – quality, propriety and discretion – these tailors bring a fresh eye to an established sartorial tradition.

Charlie Allen

Signature style: weightless, stripped-down drape with a soft natural shoulder line; ‘it should look like it’s made by an angel’.

 

Charlie Allen sketch

Richard Anderson

“Design is simple for a tailor with artistic flair. But a designer without thorough sewing training cannot tailor. There is a whole world of people who want to be wooed by innovation and novelty allied to quality and service. Today people want to be [smarter], they want to be fitter, and they want to look younger. I can make them look better by making them clothes that not only fit them but suit their bodies and personalities.”

 Richard Anderson

Richard Anderson Bespoke for men

Timothy Everest

Originally an architect, Everest is one of the leading practitioners of what he describes as the ‘new bespoke movement’. Opening his studio in the early 1990s after an apprenticeship with Tommy Nutter, he has collaborated with many important creative minds and has worked as a creative consultant to some of Britain’s best-known brands.

What is the classic British tailoring style? Structured but slightly clumsy, painstaking detail, a slight military feel and an eccentricity in the choice and matching of fabric.

The characteristics of the Timothy Everest house: I’ve always been interested in the history of British tailoring and have to admit to a degree of nostalgia, of looking at that history in quite a patriotic, rose-tinted-spectacles kind of way. So what I try to achieve with Everest is to take the essence of that quintessentially British style and to develop it into something more modern. The Everest style is slimmer, handmade and focuses on colour and pattern. I do try to evolve the silhouette over time. But bespoke is about giving the customer the choice and the control. It’s helping clients look their best.

 

Timothy Everest

Carlo Brandelli

Creative Director of Kilgour, Brandelli, defines classic British tailoring as elegant, dignified, restrained, understated, fitted proportionally correct and balanced. In terms of British tailoring in the stylistic sense he understands it as a narrow shoulder, slightly waisted jacket, clean chest definition and a flat-fronted, moderately narrow-legged trouser. Kilgour’s approach to classic British tailoring is that they set out to be the definitive bespoke tailor and the first truly modern, elegant luxury menswear brand to combine heritage and the finest craftsmen with modern, relevant design principles

“A true dandy is what I’d define as a Gentleman, a man who understands the importance of wearing the correct thing, but is not obsessed with it. A Gentleman is confident and understands occasion.”

The key tailoring pieces for a Gentleman’s wardrobe:

  • A one button, single breasted, charcoal, Super 100-weight worsted-wool bespoke suit is the ‘little black dress’ of menswear
  • A navy, self-stripe, modern take on a blazer, worn with jeans
  • Three-quarter-length covert coat in a charcoal grey wool and cashmere mix
  • A puppy-tooth worsted wool, single-breasted suit with a peak  lapel for that uber-cool event
  • Single-breasted suit with slanted pockets in dark navy mohair with a slight two-tone
  • The one-button, single-breasted, chocolate brown suede jacket

 

Carlo Brandelli suit

Gustav Temple, one of the founding editors of The Chap magazine:

Gustav Temple

  • Understands dandyism to be “a life dedicated to elegance and beauty and making a statement through clothing and attitude”
  • Defines the ‘chap’ as “a new concept, borrowing heavily from dandies and Gentlemen but hopefully creating something new”
  • Believes the lifestyle of the ‘chap’ is “not about posturing, it’s a whole way of life, an alternative existence… it’s not accepting the status quo, not accepting that you should live the same way as others”

 

And to finish off, here are some images from Giorgio Armani Spring 2010 (www.GQ.com/fashion-shows/)

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: